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正所謂男人唔補好易無😂今日我就補一補，鰻魚益處有好多，但係佢成為男人因物嘅其中一樣原因就係「補腎強腎 」😅鰻魚具有良好的補腎強腎的功效，是年輕夫婦、中老年人的保健食品。

Anyway，題外話唔講咁多。

今日去咗一間新開嘅日本菜餐廳，佢哋嘅食物主打鰻魚同埋串燒。

呢間舖頭其實座銀拉麵係同一個group，所以見到佢哋筷子都仲係用緊拉麵嗰邊嘅包裝。

餐廳唔係好大，最多應該係坐到20個人到。

令我印象比較深刻嘅應該係解釋得非常清楚嘅侍應同埋有個日本人坐鎮嘅開放式廚房。

食物方面，佢哋推介蒲燒鰻魚丼set，前菜有蟹肉麵豉蒸蛋同埋沙律，再加一個有菇係入邊嘅清湯。

蒸蛋味道好清但係同一時間亦都好清楚咁樣食到蟹、麵豉同蛋嘅味道，唔會撈到亂晒，平時食開都係喺上面加啲芝麻醬令到佢嘅味道豐富啲但係呢一個就完全冇咁嘅必要。

至於個鰻魚飯簡直係正，侍應話係最頂級嘅鰻魚（唔通佢會同你講係最低級嘅鰻魚咩😅）係個透明嘅廚房度可以見到日籍師傅專心咁燒緊我條鰻魚，最後出嚟外皮燒到脆口，魚肉比我平時食嘅淋身，同平時食開嘅有少少唔同，而且亦散發住好香嘅蒲燒醬汁。

價錢方面其實唔平，二百幾蚊一個鰻魚飯set，但係計返飽肚嘅程度同埋睇住一個日籍師傅咁用心烹調，再加上真係好好味就抵返晒。

朋友上次話食過呢一間鰻魚飯超好食所以我約咗佢一齊嚟食，可能我哋兩點先去到，所以成間餐廳都冇人！侍應服務方面佢哋都好有禮貌，侍應熱心介紹佢哋嘅餐佢介紹鰻魚丼飯有兩款，好似話係白燒同汁燒，佢話白燒會同汁分開，可以食到鰻魚本身嘅味道，鰻魚汁另上，而汁燒就會喺鰻魚上面加鰻魚汁同飯一齊上，咁我就叫咗白燒鰻魚丼飯而朋友話上次食過鰻魚飯,今次就轉過口味，食和牛丼飯！先來左個沙律小食，然後一碗麵鼓湯，味道OK，如果個沙律大少少就會好啲囉！等咗10分鐘，主角終於出場！賣相幾靚仔，原條鰻魚係好食嘅！朋友俾咗佢嘅和牛我試吓，都幾好食不過如果lunch來講就覺得有啲貴囉！我覺得係好食嘅，不過唔算真係好出色，會一試難忘果一種，但如果鍾意食鰻魚飯嘅人都可以嚟呢度試吓！

Summary: It’s a harsh rating for a new restaurant, but you don't get a grace period when you charge the prices Sumiya does. Apart from terrific service and a beautiful and smartly designed interior, it’s hard to recommend it. They stretch themselves too thin and end up messing up the basics. They have a chance to be great though: the unagi itself was the best kabayaki I've had in HK. A mid/high range specialty unagi restaurant in HK would be a smash; this hodgepodge izakaya/eel restaurant is absolutely not. Maybe give it a shot in a month or two to give them a chance to clean up their foibles, but even then, I’m not sure this proposition worksSumiya, boasting fresh eel flown in from Japan, is part of the Zagin group, which includes the restaurants on Gough Street, Zagin Soba (meh) and Marude Sankaku (fantastic), among others. Their specialty is obviously eel, with an emphasis on kabayaki style (with tare). The head chef is from Kyoto, but we neglected to ask where he worked before.Here’s the gorgeous exterior and interior. I love the modern Japanese look and how they placed the bar by the street. Most tables get a look inside the kitchen, and even in this tiny space, they manage to fit a lot of seating. They replaced the truly terrible Tiger Room, and even without discussing the food, Sumiya is, aesthetically, a big upgrade to Gough St. I enjoyed the service – shout out to Stanley in particular, who had a strong grasp of the menu, and was very friendly in answering our questions about the restaurant and the food. He even moved us to a kitchenfacing table when it became available. No issues there.Here’s the menu:As you can see, it’s quite varied for such a small restaurant – $800 eel sets along with yakitori and izakaya appetizers. I’m not sure what they were going for, but small restaurants should focus on a limited menu built around the specialty of the shop, i.e. EEL. It’s almost like “there’s already a charcoal grill, why not include yakitori too?” Logical I suppose, but they obviously require different timings and techniques, leave different residues on the grill, need different seasoning etc etc. It’s a tiny restaurant why spread yourself so thin? We could see the results of this in how many people were running around in the kitchen, but of course, the food is the ultimate proof. Unfortunately…To get a good feel of what they were capable of, we ordered the Unagi Kappo set and an Unagidon, along with an eelcucumber appetizer.Unagi Kappo SetSo, I was assuming, based on the description, that it would be 6 different eel dishes, prepared in various methods e.g. simmered, grilled, pickled etc. I’ve had eelbased sets like this before (admittedly in Japan), so I thought this wasn’t a crazy assumption. Amazingly though, for 800$, there are only two tiny pieces of kabayaki; and the kicker – they weren’t even good. Insufficiently grilled and left too long to cool, they were a bit chewy and not just a bit fishy. Unreal.The rest of the set was unimpressive too – the tempura was the best dish by far, terrific thin batter, freshly fried and interestinglyfilled. The simmered pork belly and mushroom was cold, overcooked and boring, and the pickled egg rolls were an unpleasant combination of bitter, sour, and underseasoned. The duck was overpowered by English mustard, and again, cold. The saving grace of this set was sadly the humble udon dish, which had a wonderful umamifilled dashi broth, though my friend thought the udon itself was too softAlso, this chawanmushi. A comment I’m surprised to have to make – the joy of chawanmushi is the subtle flavour of steamed egg with the broth from chunks of chicken and texture of gingko, mushroom or fishcake. What isn’t joyful is this pool of unagi tare (which in this setting is VERY sweet) steamrolling all the mild ingredients it it has submerged. For me, a perfectly steamed, cloying and unpleasant mess (we did finish the eel)Unagi Don I’m conflicted on this – after my first bite of eel I told my friend that it made up for the disastrous eel in the kappo set. It was the perfect combination of charcoal, tare, crunchy skin and bouncy eel. Tare isn’t easy to get right, and unagi shops guard their recipe fiercely. Usually some combination of mirin, sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, sake and dashi (eel or fish), the best sauces complement sweetness with savoriness, imparting depth and more concentrated umami/ocean flavor to the eel. I think Sumiya’s tare is darn good, and I never got bored of it, even with as generous a portion of eel as the unagidon provides. There’s no way to describe a perfectly grilled piece of eel; the perfect crispness of the skin in combination with the silky flesh, brought together by excellent tare. Obviously the best part of the meal, and the best in town for me.But then I tried my first bite of rice and it all fell apart; not literally, quite the opposite in fact. I’m pretty sure most people are like me: a big part of eating Japanese eel is the joy of good tare and wellcooked Japanese rice. A lot of places serve pretty mediocre eel, but most places can’t mess up rice and sweet sauce. Sadly, this place reverses the equation; I mean, look at this rice:There are a lot of weird things going on here. First, the rice grains were fragmented a la Vietnamese broken rice, which I’d never seen in Japanese rice. 2nd, it’s unusual for tare to be completely mixed with the rice; in unagidon the rice is usually coated with only the extra sauce from the eel. 3rd, there’s no way around it, they cooked this rice in too much water. Japanese rice is forgiving with extra water though, so reaching this level of gloppiness requires some serious heavyhandedness. I suppose then it’s a combination of all three: too much liquid (water and tare) into small, broken rice grains results in soggy, sticky rice. Considering there are only two things you need to get right in unagidon, this is frankly unforgivable. No matter how good the eel is (and it was very good), it’s like bad rice (shari) in sushi – it just can’t happen. I’ll assume they fix the ratio of water:rice eventually, but it’s still overkill to fully mix the rice with so much tare. I’m also not sure why they use broken rice mixed with regular rice, as it inevitably results in messy nonuniform texture and saturation; very unJapanese indeed.Eelcucumber saladThis was great – slightly sour cucumbers and savory eel, not weighed down by any tare. It’s a small victory, but a great dish with sake or shochuOverall though, I can’t, at the moment, recommend Sumiya at all. The poorlyexecuted and thus horribly expensive $800 kappo set and the glopfest rice in the unagi don are evidence of a restaurant that hasn’t figured out what it wants to be. The kappo set points to finerdining aspirations, but the flavors and execution (why was everything cold?) did not work. On the flip side, that they couldn’t get the rice correct in a RICE BOWL shows their attention is overly divided, or that they haven’t been able to taste and perfect the fundamentals. A Japaneserun restaurant that messes up rice is… unfathomable. As I’m sure someone has said before; rather than drain the ocean, better to clean your own pond first. HK doesn’t have a great unagi place; Sumiya has the fundamentals to become one. The unagi in the unagidon proves they have what it takes if they only have to worry about grilling eel.  I just hope they figure out that out, instead of trying to compete in the jungle of HK izakayas (which by the way, don’t mess up rice).

Parents’ friend opened this new restaurant in central specialized in grilled unagi, flown in from various places such as Nagoya japan. Never a big fan of eel until tonight, we started off with shirayaki unagi (whole), a Japanese chef with 30+ experience has perfectly executed the unagi: crispy skin and juicy meat!! Freshness it is!!! 2 starters: pork shabu salad and onsen tamago with sea urchin, the latter was quite good, but the pork shabu didn’t stand out much even with a special yuzu sauce. We also tried other yakitori which are also very good: skewers included breast with perilla leaf, wings, gizzard, and belly with green pepper. Crispy outside and juicy the inside. Overall it’s a new place worth trying!

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炭家餐廳詳細資料：

• 炭家地址:
  中環歌賦街24號地舖
  Sumiya, G/ F,24 Gough Street, Central
• 炭家電話: 27270013
• 炭家價錢: $201-400
• 分類: 日本菜,串燒,
• 座位: 24
• 付款: Visa,Master,現金,銀聯
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