華記粥品 灣仔

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今日食得好失望...叫魚片瘦肉粥, 俾左皮蛋瘦肉粥, D粥好難食, 無味之餘又杰得滯, 只係食瘦肉時有少少味...腸粉好淋, 好易就散開....D人又唔同哂, 係咪轉左手? 原本掛牆既畫無左, 舖外面幾盆植物又無埋.....原本間唔中黎食既舖頭仔, 今日令我唔想再黎了

一人來了灣仔找吃的，吃簡單一點，就來後巷吃碗粥吧，一向最愛都是魚腩粥，今回也不例外，點了一碗魚腩粥及一碟淨腸粉，等了不久，先來的是淨腸粉。

見店家有專人即拉腸粉，當然對它很有期望，一碟淨腸粉，只加了點豉油，當然要下麻醬及甜醬，實在是吃淨腸粉不可或缺的東西，可惜的是，麻醬異常的稀，嗅起來及吃起來都沒有芝麻香，而甜醬也是很一味的甜酸，沒有蕃薯甜香，味道很人工，所以味道當然不好，但最可怕的也莫過於那厚沉沉的腸粉皮了，而且吃起來更有粉霉的感覺，唯一的好處是腸粉的外層還算滑身，其他的地方真的一無事處，所以布拉腸粉也未必一定好。

之後也來了魚腩粥，用匙羹一舀，乍看粥底很稀，吃起來果然如此，米花雖然是有煲開了的，但由於真的是太少米了，這碗冇米粥，吃起來當然不會有米香，且一點也不綿，而且很明顯是一碗味粥，味精下得過份，完全抹煞了魚腩的新鮮，幸而的是，一碗粥內竟有四至五件大大的魚腩，店家用的是鯇魚腩，吃起來不太腥又夠滑，如果可以像生記粥品般，跟來一碗薑蔥豉油來蘸就棒了，但光吃此魚腩也很不錯，但總括來說，個粥底真的是大煞風景。

粥又差，腸粉又差，但我都決定給它這個OK臉，因為店家至少用上了新鮮夾大件的魚腩來缺這碗粥，而這碗粥只收廿二元，試問又怎忍心給它喊臉呢？

今天首站目的地是要到灣仔買東西，由於聽聞這間華記的粥品幾好，於是入內試一試‧我們點了以下食物，覺得味道如下： 豬肚粉腸牛肉粥：粉腸唔苦，幾好味，豬肚有咬口，味道不錯，只是免治牛肉較小，整體配搭幾特別，只售17元，值得一嘗‧艇仔粥：粥底幾好，不太杰，合我口味‧另外粥料都幾多，尤其小魚片幾好味，不俗‧蒸蘿蔔糕：蘿蔔是切絲的，有蘿蔔味，唔錯‧炒麵：味道ok，但若果麵條能再乾身一些和多些芽菜便更加好‧炸兩：油炸鬼仍然脆口，而粉皮又厚度適中，幾好味‧ 整體的食物質素及環境都幾好，只是等待粥品上枱的時間較長一些‧

I have always been this fan of congee and rice noodle rolls since I was a child (and I know how many times I have played the childhood card, but as a child I have already been quite fond of food). The plain ones were always the boring ones and reminded me of sick days at home, little did I realize later on in life that simplicity really is the best and takes more techniques and efforts to make it just right the consistency, the temperature, the amount of stirring, boiling, and the dedication and determination of one or many to make a great pot of congee.The congee joint at this very same spot, with the name forgotten, has stood here since my childhood days, and it's a stop we always took on a saturday morning. Back then congee wasn't topped with a handful of scallions, but shreds of green lettuce. The congee was bubbling as it was served in plastic bowls. The rice noodle rolls were made fresh, rolled tightly into round cylinders with the plain yet impressive aroma of steamed rice and flavour enhanced by the magnificent dark soy sauce and a sprinkle of toasted sesame seed.This day I returned to the very same spot that help me grow into a congee lover. The name may have changed, but the setting was pretty much the same, with one side the open kitchen and the other wooden benches and so on. Even the one step following the entrance was still there. The menu was pretty much the same too. Starving for a catchup breakfast from the past. I meanly ordered 艇仔粥 and 炸兩, while a friend ordered an extra plate of stirfried vermicelli (炒米粉) to share. 艇仔粥 arrived promptly, but it's also the same time when I saw the kitchen prepping up for lunch time crowding a steamer with plates of rice noodle rolls made earlier. Everything seemed to come from there. And just as I got the idea to back out on the 炸兩, it arrived on our table.Apparently and reasonably the 炸兩 must be made to order, which was comforting to know. Each piece of 炸兩 was a chunky round of Chinese donut wrapped tightly by a thin layer of steamed rice noodle. It did not start to loosen up despite the drizzle of soy sauce soaking into the donut itself. The texture, was disappointment in edible form. The rice noodle was the typical lackingriceflavour type, but being 'slippery and soft' was half as good as it could be expected. The donut was nowhere near crispy though. 艇仔粥 was now topped with chopped scallions, and this one had everything of the typical kind pork crackling, peanuts, ground pork, processed squid, and shreds of fish cakes. These ingredients were standards, so I didn't pay much attention to, but the congee base was soft and smooth. Yet the lingering sensation of MSG after the congee was in vivid memory after a long while. The vermicelli arrived looked like tired broken shreds. It didn't look the part where it once landed on a wok, nor did it taste like that either. The bunch of vermicelli was taken out with tongs from a steaming container to keep warm (and also keep it moist), It wasn't quite as pleasant as the vermicelli grew somewhat dull in colour. I couldn't stop but wonder whether the tide of times have pushed small congee joints like this one to stick around in the neighborhood with the quality of food elsewhere keeps changing for the better. Food trends and variations aside, something as simple (form) as congee should be well made on its own and withstand any trendy hipness of "being popular or not"...In fact it shouldn't matter to things like congee and donuts or vermicelli. Yet the disappointing and slipping quality of this joint has reminded me that even though the same space was still a congee joint, the one I have had growing up the one that nurtured many chilly winter mornings had departed with the North Wind many years ago, leaving no trace of the heartiness behind.

2009年08月05日，08:20小魔怪的大日子，為父的便作他的馬前卒。

晨早到老牌名校叩門，先到這店來碗早粥。

睡得不好無食欲，暈頭轉向，來碗下火定定神。

粥底：樸實的粥偏鹹(炎夏無問題)配料：手撕鹹肉加糖心皮蛋，降火佳品。

早晨時段，外者比堂食多。

腸粉非即拉，但不乏捧場客。

注重健康的長者們，則愛鹹肉稯走黃。

吃完粥便再踏上征途。

題外話：在老牌名校呆等時，收到小魔怪SMS，成績過關，但他竟要求轉戰恆商，最後是徒勞無功。

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