滬粵一品香菜館 西環

滬粵一品香菜館 評價 相片

在西區居住多時，經常走過這一列店鋪，但從來沒有想象過樓上原來有一家私房菜！同伴在網上看到食評，知道是私房菜，一定要預定。

不過今天大膽 8 點左右打電話過去，店主依然說沒有問題，可以招待我們。

進店裏一看，是典型的一個唐樓單位。

可能是拆掉了房間吧，但也只能容下 4、5 張檯。

店員原本要求我們兩人搭檯，但分明另一角落有一長 2 人檯。

我們要求坐 2 人檯，店員也沒有問題。

沒有看餐牌，店主伯伯跟我們溝通了一下，問了一下我們的預算，就回去準備了。

（也因爲如此，以下的菜名只是我個人的了解）先來的是一碟份量十足的醉雞。

同伴嘗得出是新鮮雞，我也覺得非常入味，唯獨是不算十分嫩滑，但也說得上出色。

接着是海蜇。

口味十分清新、爽口，墊底的拍黃瓜很醒胃。

店員續端上兩碗顔色頗深的湯，說是翅湯。

賣相一般，但用勺子一撈，原來真的有不少翅，更有鮑魚、花膠。

喝起來味道不錯，湯底很稠，但卻不是碗仔翅那種生粉湯。

後來店主伯伯解釋是因爲湯燉了很久，湯料都溶化了。

讚！吃到這裡已經點飽，但主菜才剛剛開始。

端來的蝦頗大，一人有兩隻。

醬汁很美味，有甜、有酸、有辣。

個人對海鮮十分挑剔，而且吃到現在期望已經提升了，所以覺得蝦未算最新鮮（留意：絕對不是「不新鮮」或「梅」，我只是跟海鮮店的游水蝦相比，想來也不是很公平），但同伴不同意。

後來店主伯伯講解時也說只會用新鮮材料，我唯有歸咎可能我們去得較晚，新鮮蝦可能斷氣了。

撇除這點，這不失爲一道很出色的菜。

食物繼續來，居然是一隻紅燒元蹄。

天呀，這種菜色一般是一大幫人是才會點，雖然店主有本事找到較小號的蹄膀，但我們兩人還是看傻了眼。

無論如何，味道依然高水準，尤其是皮跟肥肉最美味嫩滑。

不得不讚是元蹄下的唐生菜，吸收了元蹄的紅燒汁，美味得來，卻又不油膩。

（大家可以看到照片中的汁沒有太多油浮面，元蹄來説算十分健康。

）這時候店主伯伯出來跟我們聊天。

伯伯說他做這點不是爲了賺大錢，只是賺一百幾十塊的人工，已經很開心。

這點我覺得伯伯不是胡説，以今天的份量、用料來説，絕對超值。

之後再來的是小籠包和豆沙鍋餅。

小籠包是很傳統的做法，皮比較厚、湯汁不多，香港人吃慣了改版「皮薄多汁」、有如灌湯餃的小籠包，未必喜歡。

總括來説，$ 200 一位物超所值，美味，絕對值得再來（下一次會帶外國朋友來）注意，這裡只有茶，沒有餐飲供應，但店主不介意我們自行到 711 購買。

本來打算前往的餐廳逢星期一休息，經朋友介紹機緣巧合之下來到滬粵一品香菜館食私房菜。

訂枱的時候發生一段小插曲，要知道食私房菜一定要確定好人數，方便餐廳買餸。

怎料朋友擺了個鳥龍，我們最終只有6人出席，他卻訂了8人，因此餐廳買了8人份量的餸。

但是大廚兼老闆的袁伯伯很好，只收我們7人錢，也許這就是私房菜的人情味吧！菜餚方面，打頭陣的是新鮮醉雞。

醉雞端上餐桌，花雕的香氣已經飄出來，令朋友們如痴如醉。

袁伯伯採用新鮮雞，內質細嫰，不會太肥。

確實為本來沒有多大期望的我們帶來無限的驚喜。

接下來的烤夫也保持一貫上海特式，不錯！第三道菜是青瓜海蜇頭。

海蜇頭的質感屬意料之中，而味道偏向清淡，相信是為接下來的熱葷清理一下我們的口腔。

進入熱葷的環節，首先登場的是乾燒海蝦。

海蝦新鮮不在話下，醬汁是尤其出色，甜酸辣度剛好，為了這個汁，我們不得不以白飯來迎接它。

接下的給我最大的驚喜 美國帶子豆苗。

隻隻帶子都很飽滿，據袁伯伯講，每隻帶子要25元，可見其對用料的執著。

而好的帶子，加上袁伯伯的功夫，吃起來不會有一般熟帶子的韌性，真的了不起！是日靚湯上場 花膠燉螺頭。

袁伯伯親自為我們舀湯，並叮囑我們一定要把湯喝完，當然我們也沒有辜負他的心機啦。

用料相當十足。

正當我們以為菜已經上得七七八八時，袁伯伯再端上一道蝦子蚊海參。

不是吧，我們已經開始有飽意了。

我們真的滿足了，怎料再繼續追加清蒸海魚、洋燒排骨、上湯鮮菜和豆沙鍋餅！由於照片上載所限，在此不贅。

其中豆沙鍋餅更是令在場的女性朋友欲罷不能。

負責訂枱的朋友事前都不知道會有多少道菜，只見菜餚一道一道的端出來，好像沒完沒了似的。

最後有9道菜、1湯和1甜品，200大元有如此份量，已屬難得。

而且袁伯伯一點也不吝嗇，用料絕不馬虎，不為賺錢，只為興趣，加上烹調技巧高超，可見其敬業樂業的精神。

下次會湊齊大夥朋友再來！

聖誕日，上完教會後和同伴到處閒逛，想吃個Christmas Lunch之際，路邊的一塊告示牌吸引了我們的目光。

一張紅紙，用毛筆上書廿多隻字；看完後環顧左右，不禁一怔：又話有上海嘢食？間舖呢？？原來開在閣樓。

登門只見另一張紅紙寫著「營業中」貼在門上。

一推門，裡面真的有人，一位貌似店主的老先生正在閱報，他放下報紙，打量著我･･･「請問･･･做唔做生意？」「做！做！坐啦！」歷險小說到此為止，而家坐低開飯。

環顧四周，這兒像傳統香港老一輩的家多些，有福祿壽、金魚缸、中國畫，還有幾個花瓶和植物。

另一邊牆上，掛了個相架，都是些六七十年代的當紅的女星，除狄娜外，我一個名字也叫不出來。

窗邊更放了數張黑膠碟，堪稱歷史珍藏！店主遞上了菜牌，一看，竟有種似曾相識的感覺：我還是細路時，好像曾到過這家店吃飯！店主解釋，原來以前是家地舖，後來搬上閣仔，一晃眼廿多年了。

我們點了最傳統的客飯：炒鱔糊 ($50) 和獅子頭 ($40)，又因饞嘴點了一客十個的小籠包 ($30)。

店主說，獅子頭需時較久；原來他也是廚師，說完他就進後欄了。

切嘢聲、洗嘢聲、炒鑊聲相繼傳出，就像是媽媽在廚房忙碌，我哋班馬騮喺客廳邊反斗邊等食一樣。

店主說，因樓上舖的關係，人流較少，材料基本上無法預先預備，只有現點現做，類似私房菜的做法。

唔緊要，我哋等得。

例湯（青紅羅蔔煲排骨）先上，頂住吓肚先。

十多分鐘後，炒鱔糊先上。

賣相紮實，甚至不修邊幅：芽菜向不同方向展開，鱔條摻雜其中；芡汁色澤較深，味也十分濃。

鱔的份量不少，實在而不花巧。

我們放慢來吃，等待獅子頭的到來；不消十分鐘，也上桌了。

最傳統的做法，不砂鍋、不清湯，菜和筍隨便放在那坨肉上，很率性自然。

味道，想了半晌，想不出怎樣去形容它；想到了，就是：「家裡頭的味」。

難道有人會為阿媽煮的餸寫篇食評，雕琢一番？吃得有點撐了，還有十個小籠包等著我們解決。

金屬蒸籠、菜葉舖底，還有多少上海菜館是用這種排場呢？講樣子，個個包法和大小都不同；皮，不薄；肉汁，幾乎沒有；肉本身，倒算鮮。

小南國、王家沙、夏麵館、翡翠等的小籠包，要賣相精緻，要皮薄餡靚肉鮮甜，可說應有盡有，但附送的還有市場的熙攘、買賣的匆忙、敏捷準確的服務，就是沒有這兒的恬靜和閒散，還有身兼幾角的店主過來聊天。

聖誕節，處處有售的是華麗、享樂和customer satisfaction，但這節日所表揚的溫暖、關懷和人情味，卻在業績、效率和評分表的追求中消失殆盡了！菜都上過了，為何仍聽到烹煮聲？正努力清剿枱上飯菜之際，店主為我們送上了驚喜：現煎的鍋餅！（同伴說是豆沙餡，我卻嘗到一些棗泥的味道。

）那份勞苦、那份心意，不是在酒樓吃飯後，相熟的部長或經理，送上幾碗預先煲好一大鍋、送完即止的糖水所能比擬的。

這是今餐第一個感動位。

店主姓袁，本身不是上海人，但自十二歲起就在上海舖工作，與上海人為伍。

他說自己快七十四了，我們大驚，因他體型矯健，面貌精神有活力，簡直一點都不像！六十多年的經驗，有誰還可誇口呢？問他是否以控制飲食來維持體重，他說不必：店內事務如採購食材、款客等，全部親力親為，太過忙碌才找家人幫手，哪裡胖得起來？他還說，甚麼都吃，不吃的話，哪能明白客人的口味？有道理。

這個年紀，他還在做廚，已不是為搵錢了，純粹因為自己太喜歡烹飪這工作了，仍在竭力追求美味：「所以我事先聲明獅子頭要等，因工序多：炸完要烚，烚完又要炆，唔係唔好食嘅！」第二個更感動的位。

無以為報，把行囊中的聖誕VCD贈予他，希望與他分享一份珍貴的禮物。

正為另一位街坊忙碌的他，走出來連連鞠躬致謝。

這個聖誕餐，沒有火雞，沒有布甸，卻百倍窩心！

Hole in the wall? Check. Green and white checked tablecloth? Check. Elderly but friendly chef and his sidekick running the show? Check. Awesome food? Check. A HUNDRED BUCKS for a 11 course meal? No way!It is indeed true, and I can vouch for it in person. Having only read one review here posted almost a year ago, I didn't have much to go on except a hunch that someone good is about to happen. The 7 of us crammed around a small table, and next to us was a large group of friends who took up the remaining 2 tables. Mr Yuen came out to greet us and asked if it's alright if he calls the shot for the dishes. Absolutely, I said, except not the chilled beef in jelly and no fatty pig's feet, and he slinked back into the kitchen and kept himself busy. His helper ran the rest of the show, helping him prepare the ingredients, shuttling back and forth and bringing out dishes of glorious food. Don't except too much service here, but it was a pretty laid back atmosphere so I helped myself to spare bowls and refilling the tea from the old school urn. We brought 3 bottles of wine, and we managed to find a rusty old corkscrew at the bottom of a pile of utensils.The first dish came quickly, and we had the puffy dough 烤芙 with 毛豆 (kinda like edamame), golden needles 金針, black fungus 雲耳. The dish wasn't exactly a cold appetiser, but neither was it hot, but somehow that worked well with the flavours and texture of the ingredients. The drunken chicken was next, the wine sauce was splendidly fragrant with a touch of sweetness, and the chicken was ever so tender. Then came the marinated jellyfish with pickled cucumber. My friend said they were the biggest pieces of jellyfish she's seen, and they were crunchy and springy too. The cucumber slices were home made, and it had a wonderful sourness that pleased my taste buds very much.The rest of the hot dishes came one by one, not too fast and not too slow, just enough time for us to clamber into one dish and gobble it all up and let the flavours sit before the next one arrived. The eggplants with salted fish came bubbling like molten lava, and the eggplant retained its firmness but still soaked up all the goodness of the sauce, and the best part was that it wasn't oily and greasy. The ma por tofu had less sauce than the usual rendition, but I much preferred this style as the gooey stuff normally masks the true flavour of the tofu. And the tofu here was firm, smooth and silky, with fresh pieces of pork and just the right balance of chilli. The sweet and sour pork had the most tender pieces of pork I've had for a long time, but they weren't fatty which meant a lot less guilt. The use of sweetcorn was a little unconventional but gave the sauce a bit of crunch and texture. 干煎大蝦 (fried prawns) was nicely presented on a bed of lettuce, and the sweet chilli sauce was my favourite of the night. The prawns were very fresh and people wasted no time getting their fingers dirty peeling off the shell.Then came the xiaolongbao, which reminded me of the ones my shanghai friend's mum used to make as she would lay down a bed of cabbage too. The dumplings didn't have much juice in them as he probably didn't put in a lot of fat, but the pork was fluffy and tasty. The hot and sour soup was a tummywarming bowl of soup with plenty of condiments black fungus, tofu, beancurd sheets, bamboo shoots, and I think some pig's intestines too (but I didn't say anything at the time or it might have put off some of my Westerner friends). The consistency of the soup was perfect, not too thick, and a 5050 balance of hotness and sourness.By then we were finally feeling full, but the dessert wasn't wasted on us. Someone called it pop tart, which I guess is the closest version you can get in the western world. The dough was thin and crispy with a glaze of oil but which didn't taste greasy, with just enough red bean paste in the middle to offset the floury taste of dough without overpowering your sense of taste. Mr Yuen came out when he finally finished cooking up a storm, and asked me to translate and tell the others that he's very pleased that they enjoyed his meal, and that he cooks for pleasure, as a hobby, and not for profit. And he pulled a figure out of thin air and said, $100 a head. OMG, nobody believed it. So we left a handsome tip and parted with the lovely gent. Make sure you book a few days in advance as it's almost always full.

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滬粵一品香菜館餐廳詳細資料：

• 滬粵一品香菜館地址:
  西環皇后大道西312號地下
  Hu Yee Yi Pin Xiang Restaurant, G/ F,312 Queen's Road West, Western District
• 滬粵一品香菜館電話:  
• 滬粵一品香菜館價錢: $101-200
• 分類: 滬菜,上海,京川滬,私房菜,
• 座位: 未知
• 付款: 現金
• FB專頁: 滬粵一品香菜館 Facebook

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