LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine 中環

LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine 評價 相片

六月七日 (星期五)開心週五，是日來到Dining Concept旗下的LARIS提起LARIS這名字，好們有點似曾相識再在前加上David，大家就好像恍然大悟一樣無錯，這裡就是澳洲名廚David Laris在港開設的高級餐廳Laris幼時居於希臘，後來回到澳洲，發現自己喜愛烹調，於是就開始接受正統的法國菜廚藝訓練之後他更遊走世界各地，眼界亦大眼，其烹調風格亦多變而多樣化輾轉來到香港，在這裡開設此餐廳的前身LARIS Contemporary Dining，是一高價位之餐廳後來大廚想更多人可以品嚐到其飲食風格，決定改革，轉為較平民化兩道菜的午市套餐HK$138，是中環蘇豪區內的中位價加上名廚David Laris的名氣，這個價錢絕對是抵吃頭盤有三款，可選是日餐湯,沙律或是白酒煮青口三人同時也對青口感興趣白酒青口很多西餐廳也會供應，但放得如此美觀實在少見來自澳洲青口，每隻也是脹卜卜配以白酒來煮，鮮味突出，濃度又沒蓋過青口的鮮甜青口肉汁豐富，汁充滿白酒芳香，用來沾麵包吃，美味！David 設計的fusion菜一直也享負盛名，見到餐牌的這客吞拿魚烏冬，當然也要一試黃鰭吞拿魚的外層沾上芝麻後微微香煎，內裡仍然保持鮮活狀態魚厚身且切好幾片，美味豐腴烏冬粗身彈牙，湯底中配以大量蔬菜，挺鮮嫩爽口所說的Sousvide，是指真空低温烹調 來自澳洲的牛扒，肉呈血紅色，但不見半點血水，廚師功架十足入口肉質煙韌細緻，完全沒筋性，牛味香濃，肉汁豐潤不要錯過佔上半碟的薯蓉，入口香滑又有粒粒薯蓉口感，甜美可口還有三粒帶微酸的車厘茄，爽口多汁，吃完牛肉才吃，感覺就更清新!兩道菜的午餐後，大家仍是意猶未盡，加多四十元來享用一客精緻甜品Graham cracker sable with blowtorched marshmallow and dehydrated chocolate mousse這裡的甜品絕不馬虎了事，也明顯花個心思來設計的底層是以朱古力製成的餅底，中間是綿花糖做成的長方形蛋糕，上面則是朱古力雪糕及威化餅綿花糖表面稍微烘熱，外層結實，內裡卻是軟綿綿，口感豐富底部香脆的餅底，沾上濃郁的朱古力醬，多重味覺享受，朱古力迷不要錯過呀!據知，店方會定期更換餐牌，冒求以最時令菜式給客人品嚐再來，未知是否會有另一番精彩呢?

A promising menu and resounding Time Out review got us excited about visiting Laris. Especially as we had good memories of 3 on the Bund in Shanghai.The staff desperately tried to push the tasting menu, which we decided against, as there were only heavy red meat options for main courses and no leeway to change to another dish. The starters arrived while we were still drinking our champagne – a little quick. The ocean trout tataki with slow cooked egg, XO sauce and keta caviar came beautifully presented. The trout and the slow cooked egg were perfectly executed and the caviar delightful, however the dried shrimp in the XO sauce overpowered the rest of the dish, a shame as it killed it.Thankfully the main courses followed at a better pace. The Peter’s farm veal loin with herb and Parmesan crust, carrot, confit potatoes and garlic jus had great potential, especially as the quality of the meat was second to none. However, the dish fell down on execution – the veal was served in one piece (not sliced as is usual). It was pink at the extremities and well done inside. Despite its mouthwatering description, the rest of the dish completely lacked flavour. The brussel sprout & bacon side dish was perfect. The highlight of the meal was definitely the Carrot cake, coffee crumble, chocolate ganache – perfect execution and sumptuous taste, a great way to finish a meal that wasn’t quite up to expectations!

我向來都很喜歡Dining Concepts的餐廳，最近他們和澳洲籍名廚David Laris合作在雲咸街開了一間叫Laris的餐廳，主要供應現代澳洲及地中海料理。

室內裝修挺豪華，有皮椅和一個大雲石廚房檯面，但空間細小，覺得有點逼。

食物方面，菜式有創意，味道都可以，但份量很少，我吃了三道菜也不太夠飽。

晚餐有一個8道菜的Tasting Menu，每位$788，聽朋友說份量也不是太大。

Dining Concepts is wellknown for their brilliant collaborations with celebrity chefs, such Vi Cool with Sergi Arola, Lupa and Carnevino with Mario Batali and Il Molo with Michael White. Their latest venture, located in the prime location of Wyndham Street, is a partnership with David Laris, an Australian chef and the brains behind many renowned restaurants in Shanghai, including Twelve Chairs, The Fat Olive and The Purple Onion.Laris is David's first foray into the Hong Kong dining scene, and with his Australian and Greek heritage he has created a modern menu incorporating Australian and Mediterranean flavours. The restaurant is bright and luxurious, with roundbacked seats, a marble kitchen countertop and a large glass window overlooking the Old Central Police Station. The staff were knowledgeable and helpful, but the tables were placed too closely together for such an upscale restaurant. I went there for lunch with two colleagues, and tried their set lunch at $138 for 2 courses and $178 for 3 courses. The price is quite reasonable for a highend restaurant in Central, but the portions were not robust. A few of my friends tried the 8course tasting menu for dinner at $788 per person, but apparently the portions verged on the ungenerous too.A warm, crispy baguette was served, and the garlic butter spread was moreish.(1) The Leek tart with brie cheese served with rocket salad and aged balsamic toffee arrived first, and it was alluring, with the meltingly smooth brie cheese adding richness to the warm leek tart.(2) The Hand cut New Zealand ocean beef tartar with crostini, apple mustard and slow cooked egg had a serene presentation, but tasted rather ordinary. Even though the translucent slow cooked egg looked beautiful, the apple mustard was too mild to lift the flavours of the tartare; this dish needed a bit more zing.(3) The New Zealand Grass fed burger, Fontina cheese and truffle aioli served with potato croquettes followed. We were told that it was cooked to medium rare, but it was actually more like medium. The beef patty was thick and sizeable, and the burger was hearty and satisfying. The potato croquettes (not chips) were gorgeous crunchy on the surface and powdery and fluffy in the middle, it was just the perfect companion for the burger.(4) The Jumbo lump crab cake with sweet corn puree and fresh made coleslaw was also outstanding. Large, fresh strands of crab meat filled the crab cake, and the coleslaw on the side was crunchy and refreshing.(5) Lastly, I also enjoyed the House made green pea and ricotta ravioli with sage and brown butter sauce. The ravioli was appropriately al dente, and the green pea and ricotta filling was smooth and sensuous. The brown butter sauce, though a little heavy, tasted delicious, and the shaved Parmesan cheese and the cherry tomatoes added a variety of flavours to the pasta.(6) We tried the Blood orange panacotta with orange jelly and almond crumble for dessert. While the taste of blood orange was fresh and invigorating, and the orange jelly added a bright citrus note, the panacotta was not creamy or rich enough to counteract the dessert's fruity flavours. The execution of some of the dishes could be finetuned, and the small portions and crammed seating may cast doubt on whether the prices could be justified. Having said that, the contemporary menu was playful and inspiring, and all in all, Laris is a sophisticated restaurant and a welcomed addition to Wyndham Street.

看到其他食家的照片，這天特意跟友人來試試這家餐廳。

雲石廚房採取開放式，讓人感覺簡潔乾淨。

用餐地方則是傳統Dining的微暗燈光，配上白檯布和花瓶，有簡約高貴之意。

本來對於環境沒有什麼可挑剔，但坐著坐著到高峰時期(也才8成滿左右)，整家餐廳好像變成街市，環看四周，每個人都是西裝友，說話都蠻斯文的，但不知為何就是很吵雜，坐到後來我們差不多是用逃走來形容，反正整體感覺不算舒服。

說回食物，看了一下Set Lunch Menu，選擇還不錯，我跟友人就一人叫了一個Set。

Starter個人非常喜歡麵包，以致對於餐前麵包也甚有要求，看過之前食家的照片，本來蠻有期待的，結果上來只有薄薄一片，有點小失望。

麵包有點冷掉，有點脆又有點硬，而且牛油在這種麵包上也起不了什麼作用。

友人要了Daily Soup，當日是Mushroom Cream Soup (8/10)，以茶壺上，店員會在你面前倒出來，倒出來的瞬間我也聞到蘑菇味四溢，只輕嚐了一口，入口倒沒有聞起來香，但也算不錯。

我則要了Duck rillette with blueberry lavender compote (6.5/10)。

看名字覺得很漂亮，上桌賣相也不俗，但味道就一般了。

Duck rillette的口感就像乾的罐頭吞拿魚，Duck的元素恕我完全吃不出來，而且藍莓跟薰衣草的用法也不見得對整體味道有提升，反而旁邊的baby spinach新鮮可口。

MainsBraised short rib with pistachio crust served with mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables (8/10)我選的主菜。

通常short rib都會come without bone, 意外地這個有。

顏色偏深啡色, 配上顏色鮮豔的車厘茄跟露筍,視覺反差不俗, 味道亦感覺新鮮。

醬汁雖然深色但不至於太鹹, 其實頗鮮味, 值得一讚! 再嚐一口薯蓉, 薯蓉吸收了醬汁, 而且薯仔本身應該很甜, 配上醬汁真的非常美味, 比rib更甚。

也許牛肋骨骨頭比肉還多, 縱使牛肋骨炆得軟腍, 亦入味, 還是有那麼一點遺憾。

House made hand cut fettuccini with little neck clams and tiger prawns in a white wine cream sauce (7/10)友人的選的這道主菜, 屬大路安全之選, 但注意, 吃不多的朋友可能還好, 女性胃口屬中間或以上的, 點這個你一定不夠飽。

fettuccini口感偏硬, 吸收不多white wine cream sauce。

醬汁本身雖稠但不夠濃, 白酒元素是完全没吃出来。

跟上的海鮮也没啥特别, 所謂虎蝦也只是一般的大小, 味道尚算新鮮。

蜆亦是差不多情况而未見突出, 導致整體只屬平平。

DessertBanana & White Chocolate Mousse Tart (2/10)整餐下來最惨烈的一環。

首先賣相可謂極之普通, 再來吃的時候我還以為來錯order 完全吃不出banana跟white chocolate的味道!!! 好吧我騙人, banana味是有那麼一點, 但實在是只有那麼一點。

那個所謂mousse更像cream, 味道不對辦, 跟碟上的水果跟那pat朱古力醬更是不搭!!! tart身尚可接受, 但只屬一般。

作為是日甜點, 要我另加$40來一客實在是讓我有點後悔。

House made icecream & sorbets (5/10)一球花生醬雪糕加一球raspberry sorbert, 上桌賣相普通, 以為起碼會有幾粒水果伴碟或者有些朱古力畫繪裝飾, 結果什麼都没有, 顯得有點凋零。

raspberry sorbert激酸, 能刺激大腦那種, 視酸如命的你會喜歡。

花生醬雪糕本人覺得不太像花生醬, 未能觸動味蕾。

除了食物質素和環境之外, 服務亦要有所注意。

當天其實不是full house, 開始時還好, 但到我們用完starter之後, 隔了差不多810分鐘都没有人來收碟, fine dine地方此種情况實屬少見 (雖然是lunch), 而且有個别waiter/waitress當時是没事做的! 而且隔壁桌比我們晚下order, 他們的主菜亦比我們的早到至少10分鐘 (我們等了很久的mains)!!! 這個店方要多注意了。

Just in case the shop owner/PR can't read Chinese, would like to make a note here in regards to the service.At the beginning it's alright, but after the starter it became worse.It was only about half full at that moment, some of the individual waiter/waitress had nothing to do, but no one bother to collect the empty plates from our table.It's quite unusual in a fine dine place like this thou it was only lunch time.Also, we made the order even before the desk next to us arrived, but their mains came earlier than us!!!

上一次到fiat caffe試吃的時候，負責人曾經提過國際名廚 David Laris 是在那邊擔任顧問，而他剛剛在中環開了一家新餐廳，既然我們對fiat的食物都頗滿意，所以鬆弛就說過不如找天去試試看。

其實事隔都差不多個幾月，這個周末午餐想吃西餐，我也就終於記起了要去這家餐廳了。

周末的午餐時段客人不多，連我們在內，只有四檯客。

餐廳的裝修很漂亮，懷舊風格中又帶點時尚感，深啡色的半圓皮椅和牆身配搭圓球型的玻璃吊燈，特大玻璃窗透入陽光，感覺柔和舒適。

雲石檯面的開放式廚房，可以看著廚師們在準備食物，滿足了視覺享受。

午市套餐價錢非常相宜，兩道菜才$138，想吃甜品的話可以另加$40。

頭盤分別有是日餐湯，牛肉tartar和brie cheese tart，因為我們對當日的薯仔湯沒太大與趣，所以就選了餘下兩款。

主菜同樣是三選一，我點了crab cake，而鬆弛就要了medium rare的burger；兩款甜品只有一款合心水，所以就只加了一份而已。

首先送上來的是麵包，長型兩頭尖的麵包微暖，有點硬，我比較喜歡軟身的麵包，不過這個也不算差。

牛油有兩款，一款是帶有少許蒜味的軟身牛油，另一款既硬身的無鹽牛油，既然麵包都那麼硬，與軟身的牛油較配。

Hand Cut New Zealand ocean beef tartar with corstini, apple mustard and slow cooked egg。

牛肉tartar上面放在一隻slow cook蛋，賣相漂亮，旁邊有幾塊小的脆多士和特製的蘋果芥末醬汁。

把蛋汁和牛肉充分攪拌，牛肉的綿軟與蛋香結合，是很不錯的牛肉tartar，另外醬汁也是一大亮點，甜甜的但芥末味不會太搶，各方面都配搭得很好。

Leek tart with brie cheese served with rocket salad and aged balsamic toffee。

新鮮焗好的Leek芝士撻，傳來陣陣的芝士和批底的香味，批底乾身鬆化，中間的brie cheese呈半溶狀態，濃郁的芝士味在口裡擴散，超好吃的呢。

伴碟的車厘茄和火箭菜沙律，醮著一些黑醋汁一起吃，在吃完芝士批後剛好可以中和一下。

Jumbo lump crab cake with sweet corn puree and fresh made cloeslaw。

煎成金黃色的crab cake切開中間，滿滿的蟹肉，薯蓉的部份很少，因為之前吃過一些蟹餅裡面一半是薯蓉一半是蟹肉，所以看著就已經忍不住要讚。

蟹肉很鮮味，每一口都嚐到絲絲蟹肉，很豪華的感覺，下面墊著的是甜粟米蓉，吃罷很滿足。

蟹餅份量不少，所以伴邊的菜絲沙律發揮了最大的消滯作用，椰菜絲和甘筍絲所做的菜絲沙律，酸酸的，清新爽脆，再吃多件蟹餅也可以。

New Zealand Grass fed burger, Fonitna cheese and truffle aioli served with potato croquettes。

絕不欺場的burger，漢堡肉很厚，做到medium rare的效果，漢堡肉粉嫰多汁，帶極重的炭烤香味，只是簡簡單單的夾著生菜與蕃茄，和軟熟的麵包，已經好好吃了。

通常配burger吃的不是薯條就是沙律，這裡的薯條跟在外面吃到的不同，外層脆口，但中間軟得像薯蓉，醮著自家製的，甜味較重的濃濃蕃茄醬，很不錯呢，只是選薯味濃一點的薯仔來做就更好了。

其實單點甜品還有幾款，不過以套餐價加$40換的就只有兩款，而我們選的blood orange panacotta wirh orange jelly and almond crumble。

半球體的panna cotta在上面，blood orange做的果凍層在底部，味道與口感都不像是panna cotta，口感粗糙，像有些顆粒還未溶掉似的，味道也不像是雲呢拿口味，反而像是yoghurt，相比起頭盤與主菜，甜品較為失色。

好像也有一陣子沒有吃到如此滿意的西餐，頭盤和甜品都很好，只是甜品稍為失手，而且個價錢在中環來說是很便宜的了。

整個用餐的經驗都不錯，侍應生不算親切但都有禮貌，菜式上桌時也有主動為我們介紹。

聽說這裡午市餐牌也經常轉換的，有機會一定會再來試試David Laris 的其他菜式呢。

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LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine餐廳詳細資料：

• LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine地址:
  中環雲咸街77號嘉兆商業大廈2樓
  LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine, 2/ F, Carfield Commercial Building,77 Wyndham Street, Central
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• LARIS Modern Australian Cuisine價錢: $401-800
• 分類: 澳洲菜,西餐廳,
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